A Circle

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We stood on the bluff above Big Drake’s, facing southward, where the indigo silhouettes of the Channel Islands seemed to float on the horizon. The ocean was as blue as ocean gets, but so clear that even looking down from above, we could see the kelp and sea grass and rock formations beneath its glassy surface. Wendy gazed out with binoculars, seeming at times precariously close to the edge of the cliff, her long white hair like spun sugar and cloud wisps, her eyes a little tearful. Alicia and Kathy held cameras with telephoto lenses, and Jim had driven up in a pick-up truck with an old gray dog and a couple of human passengers. He wore a cowboy hat, sipped from a bottle of beer, and squinted into the distance. Below us, forty-two surfers were paddling out to form a circle in the open water for a floating memorial service in honor of their friend and fellow surfer Lee Harrington.

There are those who claim that these paddle-outs are an ancient Polynesian tradition, but they more likely began in the early twentieth century as a part of modern surf culture, spreading from Waikiki to the mainland and proliferating as the sport became more popular.  Whatever the origin, they are something to behold: a beautiful expression of camaraderie, respect, and affection for the deceased by friends who also share the love of surfing and fully understand its pull on the spirit.

Now Lee's family and friends had gathered at his favorite surfing spot to reminisce, toss a few flowers and leis onto the water, and give his ashes to the sea. Those of us on the bluff above could see the full circle of surfers bobbing on their boards, their voices drifting up to us in fragments, like faraway pieces of poem and dream. Two curious seals had come by and were observing a short distance from the circle. I said a silent prayer of gratitude for Lee’s grand life and the wonder of our being here.A great white egret gracefully swooped down onto the bluff behind us, lifted its head, and gave a hoarsely muffled honk; it was an odd sound, half broken, half triumphant.